Sicily April 8th to the 22nd 2001
Cities and Towns visited:
Calatafimi/Segesta, Palermo, Monreale, Alcamo, Alcamo Marina, Castellemare Del Golfo, Terrasini, Balestrate, Trappeto, Scopello, Balata di Baida, Badia, Buseto, Custonaci, Purgatorio, Lupino, Casteluzzo, Macari, Timpone, San Vito Lo Capo, Tonnara di Secco, Bonagia, Pizzolungo, Erice, Valderice, Trapani, Napola, Datillo, Fulgatore, Ummari, Paceco, Fontanasalsa, Marsala, Mazara del Vallo, Campobello di Mazara, Castelvetrano, Gibellina, Santa Ninfa, Salemi, Vita, Selinunte, Marinella.
The pictures of the trip can be found at the Calatafimi page within the Pictures section of the site.
Sunday - April 8, 2001
1430 - Left home via Limousine to Logan Airport in Boston. Checked in at the Alitalia Counter and got our boarding passes. The flight, Alitalia 619, was 30 minutes late leaving Boston, it left at 1845 hours, the flight was a long one, about 8 hours and passed thru 6 time zones. We flew over Nova Scotia and Newfoundland and then across the Atlantic Ocean. The next morning.
Monday - April 9, 2001
We crossed over France and the Italian Alps, landing in Milan, Italy at 0815. We left Milan at 1045 hours and landed in Palermo, Sicily at 1205 hours. It took us about 30 minutes to clear customs and there in the terminal was Cousin Salvatore, his wife Alida and their daughter Caterina. After hugs and kisses, Donna and Salvatore went to pickup the rental car. The car was a 2001 Opal Vectra, 5 speed Diesel. After putting the suitcases into both vehicles we left the airport with Sal driving the Rental car with Donna and I and Caterina driving their car with Alida. We arrived in Calatafimi at about 1445 hours and I caught my first glimpse of the Temple at Segesta. In a word, IMPRESSIVE!! It was looking at ancient history. Entering Calatafimi was like a dream come true, very emotional. To be in the Town where my Mother was born was like coming full circle, to have one of her children return to the place of her birth.
Our bedroom at Salvatore’s house had a balcony overlooking the street. My first impression of the Town was that it was very old, very neat and clean and that the streets were made for foot and cart traffic, definitely not cars! We had Riso Arancine for pranzo and then took a 3 hour siesta. After the Siesta I went with Salvatore to his farm just outside the town where he has a house and about 100 Lambs and Goats. Not to mention Orange Groves! After letting the animals out to graze, we returned to the house and had Prosciutto, Tomatoes, Mozzarella Cheese, Pecorino Romano Cheese, all soaked in extra virgin Olive oil and sprinkled with Oregano, Great Bread for dipping into the oil, then fresh fruit. The Oranges were the sweetest that I have ever tasted, after the meal we all had a taste of the Anisette that I had made and brought with me, it was a hit! Met Roberta, another Daughter of Salvatore and Alida. The 3rd daughter Mariella is still in Palermo.
Tuesday - April 10, 2001
0830 - Had breakfast with Donna on the Terrace. I had Expresso and Biscotti and Donna had Tea.
1000 - With Caterina as guide we were off to see the Chiesa madre and the Castle. The Chiesa Madre was closed and Caterina and I walked up the hill to see the castle which had been built in the 9th Century AD. Donna stayed in the Parking lot of the church. As it turned out, she was the only one who got to see the inside of the Church as the Nuns who cleaned the church had gone in and allowed Donna to go in also. This Church remained closed for the entire 2 weeks that we were in Sicily. The Priest had passed away 6 months ago and had not been replaced. I took many pictures of the Castle ruins and also of the town. We then went back to the house and changed cars and went to see the Temple at Segesta. One can only stand in awe with the mouth open, to look at this temple is to see 2500 years into past. This temple is the only one in Sicily that has remained untouched. All others have either been excavated or partially rebuilt. That you are allowed to walk into it, on it and around it only adds to its beauty as you can see all of it. Salvatore met Caterina, Alida, Donna and I at the Souvenir shop where we had another Expresso and then took the bus to the top of the mountain to see the Greek Theater. There are still plays that are staged there during the summer. The view from here is beautiful. Donna bought a book about the temple and the theater at the souvenir shop. We then went in 2 cars to “MARGANA†this is the Amoroso estate that has been in Salvatore’s family for generations. Over the years it has been added to and the property is extensive and the house and buildings quite large. It is in the process of being renovated into a Tourist Hotel and Restaurant, that Salvatore says will be open in August of this year. There were lots on men working on the buildings, both inside and out. Took many pictures. Donna, Alida and Caterina went back to the house and Salvatore & I went to his farm where he let his Lambs and goats out to graze. We then went across a river bed in his Fiat Punta! entered a very large Orange Grove, which had ripe Oranges and Blossoms at the same time, the air was filled with the scent of Orange Blossoms! The Sicilians have a name for this aroma, it is “ZAGARAâ€. Along with the Orange Groves there were Lemon Groves, Olive Groves and Vineyards and Wildflowers were growing everywhere!
1400 - back at the house we had pasta with Lamb, Great Bread, wine, fruit and Grappa! The food is fresh and delicious! Then it was Siesta time.
1830 - Alida, Caterina, Donna and I went to see a new part of Calatafimi, which had been built after the 1968 Earthquake that had destroyed a lot of Calatafimi. The roads are wider, lots of what looks to be apartment houses and an Elementary School. Back in the town we parked in A square where there was a statue of Padre Pio. We looked in a couple of shops, Alida bought us a book on the Art and History of Sicily. We then walked through the oldest section of Calatafimi.
2000 - Walked to the Corner store with Alida and Donna, it was about half a block. Outside on the sidewalk were crates of fresh vegetables and fruit, the largest vegetables were the radishes and bell peppers, at least 3 times larger than in the USA. Plus they have the round eggplant, which is cooked, and the long eggplant which is used solely for Caponata. Today we also bought postcards and stamps to send to family back in the USA. Back at the house Alida gave Donna a Crocheted Doily that her Mother had made.
2030 - Salvatore, Alida, Caterina, Donna and I went to The Lombardo Pizzeria to meet my 2nd Cousins Salvatore and Michele Lombardo, Their Grandfather and my Grandmother were Brother and Sister. We all had “Original Sicilian Pizzaâ€. America eat your heart out, we don’t get anything that comes close to this in the States. We talked about family with the Lombardo’s, and met Michele’s wife. They were married last October and I had received a wedding invitation from them. They thanked us for the gift that Donna and I had sent. Back at the house Donna and I finished the first set of postcards.
Wednesday - April 11, 2001
0930 Alida, Caterina, Donna and I went to Alcamo, Sicily in the Opal to walk through the Arab Bazaar. This was an experience as they had everything under the sun for sale there. Donna bought 6 sets of Moroccan style Expresso sets. She also bought a teapot for Terri. By this time I was already on my 4th roll of film. Took pictures of the Bazaar and also of the Arab Castle in Alcamo. Mailed the 1st set of postcards from here.
1330 - Back at the house for Pranzo, which consisted of: Pasta, meat, cheeses, Olives, herbs and Salami’s. The sauce for the pasta had pork in it. When it was on the plate fresh Ricotta Cheese was put on top and stirred into the pasta! After eating, Fennel Bulb was served which you dip into salt, this aids in the digestion of the food and has a mild Licorice taste. Then Grappa!!
1800 - Alida, Caterina and Donna went next door to look at handmade lace items made by hand by the lady. Salvatore and I went to Alcamo where he attends English Classes, we were late and he drove like he was in 2nd place at the Indy 500! Its amazing to watch! When we got there we found that the teacher was on vacation and there would be no class. Salvatore then gave me the tour of Alcamo. All the old Arab buildings and a water Trough that was over 1,000 years old and still had water in it. I saw Arab Forts and Castles. We stopped at a Pasticceria for Expresso, they had beautiful looking Ricotta Torts and Cassata Siciliano. Stopped at A Roast Chicken Trattoria where Salvatore had his Prosciutto sliced and I found some Herb mixture with Spices that I had been looking for, “Ariosta†and “L’Aroma†these are used in Italy to flavor Chicken, Fish, Stews and Soups and which I cannot find in the States. Back at the house we had Prosciutto, cheeses and fruit and the ever present, “Grappaâ€. Caterina expressed a desire to visit the United States. She had graduated from University in March with a degree in Architecture.
Thursday - April 12, 2001
0900 - After a breakfast of Biscotti and Expresso, Caterina, Donna and I were off to Palermo and Monreale to see the Cathedrals, Convents and sights. Alida was staying at home as she was preparing “Pasta Con Le Sardeâ€. Something that I had been wanting for as long as I knew it was the “National Dish of Sicily.
To say the least Palermo was Chaotic! I actually was glad that Caterina was driving. In Monreale at the Cathedral there was an Easter service going on and it was only at the end that we were able to get in. This Cathedral is beautiful! Was able to get pictures of the two Cardinals conducting the Service. Also took many pictures inside this Church and the adjoining Convent. Outside I took a picture of an older Gentleman and his Sicilian Carretino. His only request was for 1,000($.50) lira donation for the horse. In the Piazza we all got Lemon Gelato which is richer and creamier than American Ice Cream. We left the Cathedrals in Palermo for another day and headed back to Calatafimi.
1400 - Pasta Con le Sarde!! Bucatini Pasta with just a little sauce, Finnochio(Fennel), Pignoli(Pine Nuts), Uvapassa(Raisins) and fresh Sardines(not like the ones in cans), fresh and large ones at that. It was an absolutely wonderful dish and I had 3 helpings of it. After the pasta we had fruit and I found the Sicilian Blood Oranges to be so sweet, that it became my favorite fruit and Alida would fresh squeeze me a glass for breakfast most mornings to go with the Expresso. I have yet to purchase “Blood Oranges†in the States that were not bitter tasting.
1700 - All the Church bells in Calatafimi began ringing. This lasted for about 15 minutes and signaled the beginning of the Easter Celebration, and that the church’s were now open. How nice to hear the bells!
1800 - Alida, Caterina, Donna and I visited these Church’s in Calatafimi: La Matrice(Annunciata), Sante Michele and Sante Giuliano(which is their Church and is next to Town Hall). It is pure joy to hear the Services once more in Latin and Italian! We then visited Salvatore's Sister who is married to a retired Medical Doctor.
Friday - April 13, 2001
Alida, Caterina, Donna and I visited the Mountain Town of Erice. And what a Mountain town! The streets are almost at a 45 degree angle, tough to walk up, easy to walk down. Visited the Church and then a ceramic shop where I purchased a ceramic Vase and Donna bought a book about the Town. After walking around the Town of Erice, we headed for the City of Trapani. We parked at the Port of Trapani and walked the few blocks to where a long time friend of Salvatore’s had a Jewelry Store. Donna and I looked over the 18 carat Gold and the Red Coral Jewelry that he had. Several pieces were purchased for ourselves and for family back home. The Owner, Marcello, gave us an extremely generous discount, after which he took us all to a lunch of Arancia and Pannini. After lunch he took us to the Old Church which is no longer serving as a church and now stores all of the statues the are carried in the â€Processioni dei Misteriâ€, Procession of the mysteries. They were just finished being decorated and I got several beautiful up close pictures of the Statues. Marcello had just marched us through the security at the door and walked us right through! The Procession started at 1500 and went right past Marcello’s Shop, so we all had great ringside seats for it. This was probably the most moving thing that I have ever witnessed in my life. The procession goes on for 24 hours straight. The soulful music and the swaying of the statues is truly amazing. In front of every statue there is a Band playing. These bands are from the Towns on the Island. Calatafimi had their band there. After the procession had passed, about 2 hours. We picked up our Jewelry from Marcello’s, stopped at another shop and purchased 2 video’s of the procession from the past year and a CD of the music that is played. Salvatore had met us at the shop after the lunch and explained the Procession to me as it went by, such as each statue is carried by men of different professions, such as, fisherman, metallurgists, carpenter’s etc. We then returned to Calatafimi and sent out more postcards. At 1930 Mariella arrived and we found that she spoke pretty good English. She had spent 3 months in England as an Au Pair.
Saturday - April 14, 2001
0900 - Mariella, Caterina, Donna and I headed out to the Piantro Romano, which is a Monument in Calatafimi commemorating Giuseppe Garibaldi and the1860 battle that took place in Calatafimi, which was the 1st battle in the war for the re-unification of Italy. It is an impressive Monument and overlooks the valley where the battle took place. We all signed the guest book that is inside the monument. Took lots of pictures here.
1330 - We all left for Alcamo Marina, which is east of Castellamre Del Golfo. We were going to the Summer home of Alida’s close friend for the last 25 years and was an English teacher at the same school that Alida had taught Mathematics. The house was right on the Tyrrehenian Sea. A beautiful house with lots of Tilework and Mosaics. Rosalia’s Husband Andrea was grilling fish outside. We ate Roasted vegetables, grilled fish and the most wonderful Sausage that I had ever tasted! For Dessert Cassata Siciliana then Wine, more wine and then Grappa! There were a total of about 20-25 people, both friends and family of Andrea and Rosalie’s at the cookout.
1730 - I drove back to Calatafimi with Salvatore as navigator.
Sunday - April, 15, 2001 Easter Sunday
We woke up this morning to all the Church Bells ringing. Alida was already in the kitchen cooking for Easter Dinner. PASTA ALLA CASA, CARCIOFI, AGNELLO AND SALSICCI! With Salvatore and Mariella, Donna and I went to the Chiesa Sante Crocifisso (it was closed). We then went to the Convent/senior citizen home and was given Expresso and Biscotti by Mother Superior, then given a tour of the residence. Outside Donna was admiring the flower garden and after I gave the Mother Superior a donation for the home, she picked a beautiful Bouquet of Flowers for Donna. Back at the House the Culmone’s had arrived. The Easter Dinner lasted 3 hours! The Pasta was made by hand. The Lamb was wonderful as was the wine, the vegetables The Cassata and finally the Couvosier and the Grappa! After all the guests had gone, Salvatore, Alida, Donna and I went to the Sulfur Baths at Segestane, they were closed. So we went to a restored winery/villa that was being restored into a Hotel/Restaurant along the same lines that Salvatore was doing at “Marganaâ€. Back in Calatafimi we visited with 2 of Alida’s Sisters and their families. There are 65 members of hers and her sisters families. You can walk the streets at night without a thought even though most of the streets are up and down and not level.
Monday - April 16,2001
At Breakfast Alida gifted Donna with a beautiful Capodimonte figurine of a lady. She also gave Donna a figurine that was an imitation of Capodimonte.
1100 - I drove with Alida and Donna to a country house about 25 miles from Calatafimi and east of Alcamo this was the traditional day after Easter cookout in the Country. There were about 50 people there and Salvatore showed up shortly after and I met another Amoroso Cousin, his wife and son. He is Salvino Amoroso and his son’s name is Vito. They all live in Palermo where Salvino is a Banker and Vito is a senior in High School. Vito speaks some English and we got on very well. He says it is his dream to visit America, so I invited him to come this summer before he starts University. The meal was enormous! They all had a hand in the cooking. Preparing the Artichokes to be roasted, Andrea Culmone was grilling fish, the Fava beans to be boiled and the Potatoes with Onions and spices to be roasted in the oven. Olive oil was being used from gallon jars! You eat the Fava beans by biting the top off, dipping it in a little salt then squeezing the skin so that only the inside of the bean went into your mouth. It took a couple of the beans before I got it down pat. Oranges that you picked off the tree’s for dessert, or Biscotti, or Cassata, or ricotta tortes....after the meal the men put chairs in a circle and were discussing things when I was invited to sit with them. As soon as I was seated they all started to ask me if I liked Clinton or Bush! When I said that I was a Republican and for Bush, most agreed with me, the gentleman seated to my left liked Clinton and when I called Clinton a “Bufone†they cheered and clapped. All in all it was a great time and we all enjoyed the “repartee†and it was taken in good humor. We decided to leave early and they told me that I would miss the Pasta con Aragosta(Lobster) which was being prepared. Arrangements were made that either Friday or Saturday we would go to Salvino’s house in Palermo to meet Salvino’s Father Vito.
Tuesday - April 17, 2001
0930 Today Donna and I were to go to San Vito Lo Capo for a 2 day getaway. We left Calatafimi and drove to Castellamare Del Golfo we took Rte 187 west, we turned off 187 and headed to Scopello and the Zingaro Reserve, Scopello is an old Tuna fishery. We then headed back to 187 west and drove toward the town of Custonaci, then on to Purgatorio, Castelluzzo, Macari and into the Arab Town of San Vito Lo Capo. I had booked a room(#205) at the San Vito Capo Hotel, with a balcony on the Beach and sea side, with only the sand between us and the Sea. We arrived there about 1130 and checked in. After Long Showers, we headed out for a walk and Lunch. We decided on the Trattoria Delfino which was just around the corner from the Hotel. Donna had the eggplant Caponata and I had roasted Calamari, a very large one with only Olive oil on it. We then did some window shopping only as the stores were closed for Siesta. I did take pictures and then we stopped for some Gelato, I had the Spagnuolo which was delicious. For dinner we went back to the Trattoria Delfino for his “Famous†Couscous in Brodo Pesce. The Couscous was loaded with Lobster, Clams, Squid and Shrimp a nice cold beer to wash it down, the meal was fantastic.
2100 Donna and I sat out on the balcony and listened to the sea and sipped “Crema di Limoneâ€.
(Note:) Beer and alcohol can be found in any of the Supermarkets.
Wednesday - April 18, 2001
After Breakfast in the Hotel and took a leisurely drive along the coast, taking pictures and ending up at the fish market in Trapani, where Donna purchased cruets of Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar. We stopped at a street vendors cart and Donna purchased 2ceramic plates with grapes on them, I told the vendor that my Mother was born in Calatafimi and he smiled and offered me a “ Regaloâ€(gift) of a small old style clay vase. On the way back we stopped in Tonnara di Bonagia and did some shopping, and buying! One thing that impresses me greatly is that religion is displayed everywhere, on the houses, in the stores and restaurants, even in the public rest areas there are religious shrines, large crucifixes, and along the sides of the roads. Religion is everywhere! The USA needs to do this! Maybe a lot of its problems will go away!
1615 - Back in San Vito Capo, donna and I strolled the streets and shopped in the stores, I purchased a ceramic piece that has our house number on it to put on the front of the house.
2000-2130 - we ate Dinner in the hotel Restaurant starting of with an antipasto of roasted Peppers, Eggplant and Olives in Olive Oil with bread for dipping. I then had Pasta Con Vongole (clams) and Donna has Pasta Con Baglio. After this came the salad of Lettuce and Emmentaler Cheese and then dessert of Fragole(Strawberries) with Gelato Mandorle(Almond Ice Cream).
Thursday - April 19-2001
After breakfast at the Hotel, we checked out and returned to Calatafimi. We stopped in Custonaci and went to the Grotto Mangipane. In Calatafimi we stopped at A store called “Multi Shopâ€, where Donna purchased a few Italian Leather Belts as gifts.
1230 - At the house we had Risotto with Piselli (Peas) and Carciofi(Artichokes), great Sausages, salad, Pane(bread), Blood Oranges and Grappa!
1400-1600 - Siesta
1700 - Salvatore took me to the workshop and home of Vito Vario, Vito is referred to as a “Maestroâ€(master), as he is one of the few who still makes the Sicilian Carreto’s(Sicilian Donkey Carts). He had a couple that he was in the process of building. He also does wood carvings, two of which are now in my house in the Cape. The first, when I asked how much it was, he said, That took me 3 days to carve, I said so how much? He said 150,000 lira($75.00), at which point I bought it and he signed it on the back. I later bought another carving of his that he had painted and was of St. George slaying the dragon. I also purchased 6 “Troculone’sâ€, Children’s tops that he makes and which I remember having as a child.
1900 - Went to Salvatore’s Sister Maria’s home for a dinner. and to meet other family members. I forgot the camera! We had Falsu Magruâ€(literal translation is False Lean). This is thinly sliced Beef with a filling inside that is cooked in the pasta sauce until tender. Delicious! In other parts of Italy it is called “Brucelone†or Bracioletiniâ€. We had 3 different wines, Frutta di Macedonia (mixed fruit compote), Gelato con Fragole(Ice Cream with Strawberries).
Friday - April 20, 2001
After breakfast Salvatore, Caterina, Donna and I headed out to Marsala, stopping at the saltworks which is on the road between Trapani and Marsala, where they still take the salt from the sea water. The town I live in on the cape used to have a salt works. At a fruit bar in Marsala we stopped an had “Almond milkâ€, similar to coconut milk but with almonds, very sweet. In Marsala we stopped at the Pellegrino Winery, they make several types of wines and I taste tested most of them, ending up purchasing a “Marsala Ruby Fine†wine and a ‘Crema di Mandorle†which is an Almond Liqueur. They were about $4.50 each, in the states they are $20-$25 each. I actually came back to the states with 10 bottles of wine! Donna purchased some Pellegrino Cooking Aprons and a cookbook. We stopped at a place that makes the Oak wine Barrels, very interesting process. We then drove through Petrosino and Castelvetrano to Selinunte and went to the ruins where there is an Archeological dig and a Geek Temple, this is an ancient city site an covers a large area. Donna bought many more Souvenirs at a vendor’s cart outside the site. On the way back to Calatafimi, we traveled through, Gibellina, Santa Ninfa, and Vita. This night was when Salvatore and I returned to Vito Vario’s, for the tops and carving.
2000 - Salvatore, Alida, Donna and I went to Trapani for dinner at a friend of Salvatore’s Restaurant, the “Ai Lumi Tavernettaâ€. We had “Couscous Pesceâ€, then fried Octopus/ For Dessert “Cassata alla Siciliana†and finished , of course, with Salvatore’s Grappa which the restaurant served! On the 23rd Salvatore will be the Chef at this restaurant for a night. Too bad we are leaving on the 22nd! We were back in Calatafimi at 2300.
Saturday - April 21. 2001
After Breakfast, Caterina, Donna and I headed into Palermo and went to the “Palacio Normanniâ€(Norman Palace), The “ Duomoâ€(Cathedral), the regional Sicilian Assembly, Saw the “Teatro Massimoâ€(Massimo Theater) where they still have the “Sicilian Puppet Showsâ€. We went and walked through the “Vucciria†which is an open air market in the oldest part of the City of Palermo, I enjoyed this immensely, every imaginable type of food is sold here! Caterina bought some “Olive Breadâ€, which had whole Olives in it. In the States you get his with tiny pieces of Olives in it. We then picked up Mariella at her apartment in Palermo, and then we were given a tour of the City. We returned to Calatafimi and had, “Pasta Con le Melanzaneâ€(Pasta with Eggplant), one of Donna’s favorites. Then had breaded Pollo(Chicken), wine and then fruit and Grappa! We gave out the remaining gifts that we had brought. We had brought one carry on suitcase full of gifts and figured that we would have an empty one to put all the purchases made in Sicily in. Well, we still had to go out and buy another suitcase! That evening we talked and packed for the return flight to Boston. Salvatore and I talked about renovating a Country House that Donna and I could use to spend the winters in Sicily and the Summers back on the Cape. It is a very interesting idea!
Sunday - April 22, 2001
After breakfast, Salvatore, Alida, Caterina. Donna and I headed out to the airport in Palermo. It rained a little and Donna said that Sicily was crying because I was leaving. At the airport Salvatore turned in the Rental Car. Donna went into the gift shop at the airport and found the gift that we had been looking for two weeks for that our Grandson Timothy had requested. Salvino Amoroso and his son Vito came to the airport to say goodbye. It was an emotional farewell, with Salvatore telling us to return in September and stay “per Tre Meseâ€(3 months) as it would take that long to see most of Sicily. We then said our final farewells and went into the secure part of the terminal, with us turning and everyone waving goodbye to each other. We flew from Palermo to Milan and then from Milan to Boston.
1700 - At Logan Airport in Boston, our Daughter and Son In Law met us with a stretch Limousine for the ride back to Cape Cod.